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"Kuala Lumpur seems to be of this very moment, a city of multiple levels and realities, able to be many spaces simultaneously." — Ross King, Kuala Lumpur and Putrajaya: Negotiating Urban Space in Malaysia, 2008 (p. 206)

Cities > Kuala Lumpur > 7 Things Tourists Don't Do in Kuala Lumpur, but You Should...

3) Admire the Vernacular

Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman & No 2 Jalan Stonor

 

2023 Travel Update: As of 2023, Malaysia essentially is open for tourism by both vaccinated and unvaccinated travelers without Covid-specific documentation or testing. However, be sure to double check the official government site and travel alerts for up-to-the minute details.

Discreetly tucked away in a forest of glass skyscrapers — not far from KLCC and Bukit Bintang — is Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman, one of the oldest and best preserved examples of traditional Malaysian architecture in Kuala Lumpur. Next door is No. 2 Jalan Stonor, an attractive British colonial-era residence.

As far as the city is concerned, Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman is a formal tourist attraction. At the time that travelgasm.com first wrote this article, though, the architectural showpiece only popped up in the top 100 or so attractions on the big tourist advisory sites. No. 2 Jalan Stonor was nowhere to be found. Both houses very much feel like hidden gems and really should receive far more attention than they do. We think the pair are a solid choice for inclusion in our 7 Things Tourists Don't Do in Kuala Lumpur, but You Should accordingly.

Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman

Built starting in 1910, Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman — which in English likely translates as something along the lines of Village Leader Abu Seman's House — originally was in the Malaysian state of Kedah on the border of Thailand. Starting in 1996, the house was lovingly "rescued, relocated, and restored" by the Badan Warisan Malaysia heritage conservation group and now is considered "one of the finest remaining examples of Malay vernacular architecture."

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If you're not familiar with the term "vernacular architecture," this description commonly is used to refer to buildings that make use of the local environment and materials and that are built by local people and the community rather than by professional architects and construction firms.

You can see an assortment of vernacular architecture in Kampung Baru, also. Because Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman was an important home when it was built — no doubt crafted by the most skilled artisans in the village — and it also has been restored, it is both more ornate and in better condition than most houses occupied by everyday folk.

Like other homes built at the time, Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman has a long, sloped roof and a pier-and-beam foundation — built on tall stilts — to accommodate heavy rains. It also was designed with careful consideration of sun angle and wind currents and is equipped with louvred windows and walls that can be opened and rotated to filter light, block heat, and capture breezes to regulate the internal temperature.

With modern construction methods and climate control systems, these straightforward, and energy free, ways to adapt to the environment once effectively were forgotten. However, with the increase in use of the "sustainability" buzzword, there now is much more interest in re-learning from vernacular architecture for current development in Malaysia and beyond.

Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman is closed entirely on Monday, Sunday, and Saturday, but otherwise, you can view the outside of the house at any time between 10 AM and 5 PM. The best time to visit is on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, or Friday at 3 PM when a formal guided tour of the inside is available in Malay and English for 10 RM (US$2.30/£1.90) per person.

No. 2 Jalan Stonor

Built in 1925 as a private residence and restored and adapted in 1995, No. 2 Jalan Stonor is a British colonial-era gem. Now it is the headquarters of the Badan Warisan Malaysia heritage conservation group and adjacent to the relocated Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman.

In addition to hosting the organisation's offices, No. 2 Jalan Stonor is open to the public on Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, and Friday from 10 AM to 5 PM — the same days and hours as Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman — and displays rotating galleries of artwork and photography. It also boasts a gift shop with locally produced handicrafts and books centered around Malaysian culture and architecture. If you would like to purchase a truly unique souvenir, you definitely can find one here.

The Best Route & Where to Eat Nearby

It is a bit tricky to get to Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman and No. 2 Jalan Stonor on foot, but we have mapped out the best route below. It ducks through the Pavilion KL Mall, uses an enclosed elevated footbridge to cut across the awful Jalan Rajan Chulan freeway, goes into and out of the beautiful five-star Banyan Tree Hotel, and finishes with a walk for a block or so on Jalan Conlay. When we last visited the area, Jalan Conlay largely was a construction site — and that still seems to be the case — so be particularly mindful of heavy vehicles. For now, the last stretch of the walk is unpleasant, but it is hoped that it will be better when the construction is complete.

To eat nearby, there are a number of hotel restaurants in the immediate vicinity, but we would suggest instead eating in Bukit Bintang proper. Although there are literally hundreds of eateries in the neighbourhood, we enjoyed the Pavilion Mall branch of the Madam Kwan's chain for Malaysian food, and you might, also. Established in 1977, Madam Kwan's is well regarded for its authenticity.

How to Get Here: Start from Bukit Bintang. To go to Bukit Bintang, take KL Monorail (Line 8, Light Green) to Air Asia-Bukit Bintang Station (MR6) or MRT Sungai Buloh-Kajang (Line 9, Dark Green) to Pavilion Kuala Lumpur-Bukit Bintang Station (SBK18A). To begin our suggested walk from the monorail, use the northeast exit (next to Lot 10). To start from the MRT, use Exit E (toward Pavilion KL Mall).

travelgasm.com's Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman Map (Full Screen)


Cities > Kuala Lumpur > Kuala Lumpur Overlooked 7 > Next: (4) Stroll Bangsar... >>

Like Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman or No. 2 Jalan Stonor? Tell your friends and frenemies on social media that you discovered them first:


All 7 Things Tourists Don't Do in Kuala Lumpur, but You Should:

  • 3) Rumah Penghulu Abu Seman
  • 4) Bangsar Village
  • 5) Glutton Street
  • 6) Pusat Bandar Damansara
  • 7) Subang Jaya (SS 15)
  • 1) Bazaar Baru Chow Kit
  • 2) Kampung Baru

Be sure to see our Top 7 Things to Do in Kuala Lumpur, too.

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  • Writing & Photos By Brock Kyle. All Rights Reserved. Update Published 15 January 2023. Feedback.