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Nicknamed the "Generalissimo," Chiang Kai-shek (蔣介石) was the de facto unelected leader of Taiwan following WWII and ruled under martial law from May 19, 1949, until his death on April 5, 1975, (martial law only was lifted on July 15, 1987). As is often the case with leaders, Chiang Kai-shek was much too complicated to summarize in a sentence, but during his rule, government corruption was widespread and thousands of people were disappeared, so it is a safe bet that he is not as highly regarded by many Taiwanese people as his predecessor Sun Yat-sen. Likewise, because Chiang Kai-shek's Kuomintang party (KMT) was run out of the country by the CCP in mainland China, it is safe to say that he is not as highly regarded in the mainland, either.

See the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall

As for the building itself, the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂) is a shrine that his supporters immediately started building after his death. The upper level features a large statue — as well as a changing of the guard event on the hour each hour from 9 AM to 5 PM — and the lower level consists of a museum that... shall we say... may leave out some details of his time in power. The flanking National Concert Hall (國家音樂廳) and National Theater (國家戲劇院) buildings host a variety of performing art events throughout the year that may be of interest, as well. In addition, be sure to walk around to the lovely gardens to the rear of the hall that are largely ignored by tourists.

Otherwise, in terms of its built environment, the massive 240,000 square meter concrete slab is rather miserable, but it holds special meaning for Taipei people because it was the site of democracy protests starting in the 1980s that led to a transition to democratic rule. To this day, it still is the site of regular political gatherings. The concrete slab was formally renamed Liberty Square (自由廣場) in 2007 by Chen Shui-bian (陳水扁), the first president to be elected from the Democratic Progressive Party (DPP), which is the main political rival of Chiang Kai-shek's KMT. No doubt, Chiang Kai-shek would not be amused.

Take the Metro to 228

For some balance, travelgasm.com would strongly recommend visiting the 228 Peace Memorial Park (二二八和平紀念公園) and the 228 Memorial Museum (台北二二八紀念館), which are only one stop away on the metro, after visiting the National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall. It's not a pleasant walk between these two areas, but we've mapped out the best transit route. The attractive park commemorates those killed by Chiang Kai-shek's government following street protests on February 28, 1948, and the museum provides more perspective.

In contrast to the grandiose National Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall, the 228 Memorial Museum is small. When we first wrote this piece, it only was labeled on online maps in Chinese in reference to its coffee shop, so we practically could get away with calling it one of our 7 Things Tourists Don't Do in Taipei, but You Should. It is a bit better appreciated these days, but still doesn't get as much attention as it should. Not all exhibits are in English, but many are, and there is a helpful English language audio guide.

If you want to make it a day of museums — always worth considering on a rainy day — the National Taiwan Museum (國立臺灣博物館), which covers natural history, also is on the other end of the 228 Peace Memorial Park. Note that both museums are closed on Mondays.

To eat nearby, there are many options just to the West between the park and Ximen Station (西門站). We enjoyed Rice Revolution (呷米蔬食/素食餐廳) for vegetarian food on one visit, but a couple of other convenient joints well regarded by locals include TAKU日式串燒 for Yakitori and a branch of the Giguo (聚 北海道昆布鍋) chain for Hokkaido-style hotpot.

How to Get Here: Take the Red Line (Line 2, Tamsui-Xinyi Line) or Green Line (Line 3, Songshan-Xindian Line) to Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall (中正紀念堂), Exit 5. To subsequently go to 228 Peace Park, take the Red Line one station to NTU Hospital (台大醫院), Exit 1.

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