Cities > Rome > 7 Things Tourists Don't Do in Rome, but You Should...
3) Go Outside the Walls
Saint Agnes Outside the Walls in Rome's African Quarter
The Trieste Quarter — commonly referred to as Rome's African Quarter because of its streets like Viale Eritrea, Viale Libia, Viale Somalia, and Viale Etiopia named after Italy's former colonies — first hit the travelgasm.com radar because we had an embassy appointment in the area.
The primary metro station — S. Agnese/Annibaliano — wedged essentially in the middle of an unpleasant roundabout and the largely concrete Piazza Annibaliano next door were uninspiring. However, after a couple more meetings in the area, we had sufficient time not only to visit the beautiful Basilica di Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura (Basilica of St. Agnes Outside the Walls), but also discover smaller tree-lined side streets that are rather charming.
Basilica di Sant'Agnese fuori le Mura
Conveniently located next to the station, the beautiful Basilica of St. Agnes Outside the Walls and the attached Mausoleo di Santa Costanza certainly are the highlights of the neighborhood. Purported to hold the remains of Saint Agnes, and tracing its history back to 625, this compound of ruins and active church buildings is beautiful.
On three visits, we twice had the place entirely to ourselves and once encountered a small Italian-speaking tour group, so it does attract some tourists. However, at the time we first wrote this piece, it didn't clear the top 200 attractions on the big tourist advisory sites and very much felt like discovering a hidden gem. If you are the type who finds that a horde of pushy and often disrespectful tourists detracts from the experience of a religious site, you likely would find the trek up to the African Quarter to be well worth the time.
This is an inexpensive neighborhood in which to eat, also. Dozens of affordable options are available not far from the church, but three joints well regarded by locals include Romoli for coffee and pastries, Gelarte for gelato, and La Locanda for handmade Italian pasta dishes.
We've mapped out our preferred route through the district below. It takes you on the most direct path from the metro to the Basilica and endeavors to avoid the main street in favor of smaller side streets with people on foot — most notably Via Sabrata and Via Massaciuccoli. These streets are pleasant for a stroll as well as a nice place for a meal.
How to Get Here: Take the Rome Metro Line B1 (Blue) to S. Agnese/Annibaliano. Note that at Bologna Station, Metro Line B (Blue) forks into Line B and Line B1. If a particular train on Line B is headed to Jonio, you will not need to transfer; but if it is headed to Rebibbia, you will need to disembark at Bologna and switch to a train bound for Jonio. To start our suggested walk, use the Via Eritera/Asmara exit.
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